Method of weaving a pile fabric



H. F. NowlcKl ET AL 2,924,251

METHOD OF WEAVING A PILE FABRIC Feb. 9, 1960 3 Sheets-Sheet l Filed July l0, 1958 .k iv lIl.' li

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Peb. 9, 1960 H. F. NQWICKI ETAL METHOD OF' WEAVING A PILE FABRIC Filed July 10, 1958 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 INVENTORSZ HENRY E NOWICKI HARRY J. SMILEY H. F. NOWlCKl ETAL METHOD OF WEAVING A PILE FABRIC Feb. 9, 1960 3 Sheets-Sheet 5 Filed July 10, 195B QQ. Q0.

HARRY J. SMILEY ATTY.

METHOD or wEAvrNG A PILE FABRI Henry F. Nowicki, Norristown, Pa., and Harry J. Smiley,

Glasgow, Va., assignors to James Lees and Sons Company, Bridgeport, Pa., a corporation of Pennsylvania Application July 10, 1958, Serial No. 747,751

4 Claims. (Cl. 139-403) velvet or Wilton type pile fabric a construction in which the pile yarns are bound into the base fabric in a zig-zag manner.

A further object of the invention is to provide a method of drawing in the warp yarns in a velvet or Wilton type fabric construction in which pairs of chain warps are separated by one or more pile warps in each dent.

Other objects will be apparent fro'm the specification and drawings in which:

Fig. 1 is a schematic top view of a fabric constructed in accordance with the present invention, y

Fig. 2 is a warpwise section as seen at 2-2 of Fig. 1,

Fig. 3 is a weftwise section as seen at 3,-3 of Fig. 1,

Fig. 4 is a diagram illustrating the draw for the fabrics of Figs. 1 3,

Fig. 5 is a top view of a variation of the fabric of Fig. 1,

Fig. 6 is a draw of the fabric of Fig. 5,

Fig. '7 is a warpwise section showing the fabric of Figs. 1-3 woven over pile wires,

Fig. 8 is a weftwise section of the fabric of Fig. 7,

Fig. 9 shows the fabric of Fig. 7 in a cut pile construction,

Fig. 9a is a diagrammatic illustration of the manner in which long and short pile projections are provided in accordance with the invention,

Fig. 10 is a weftwise section of the fabric of Fig. 9,

Fig. 11 is a further modified top view of a fabric constructed in accordance with the invention,

Fig. 12 shows the draw for the fabric of Fig. 11,

Fig. 13 is a further modification in which two pile yarns work to'gether,

Fig. 14 is a schematic top view of a fabric woven in accordance with the invention in which pairs of face pile yarns in each ident carry over two successive pile wires,

Fig. 15 is a warpwise section as seen at 15-15 of Fig. 14,

Fig. 16 is a weftwise section as seen at 16-16 of Fig. 14,

Fig. 17 is the draw for the fabric as seen in Figs. 14-16,

Fig. 18 is a modification of Fig. 14 and analogous to' Fig. 5,

Fig. 19 is the draw for the fabric of Fig. 18,

Fig. 2() is a diagrammatic top view of another embodiment of the invention,

Fig. 21 is a warpwise section as seen at 21, 21 of Fig. 20,

Fig. 22 is a weftwise section as seen at 22-22 of Fig. 20,

Fig. 23 is a further embodiment of the invention, and

Fig. 24 is a warpwise section as seen at 24--24 of Fig. 23. i

2 The invention comprises essentially the provision of a pile fabric in which certain of the pile warps are tied in at warpwisev staggered 'points in and around the fabric.v Y

This is accomplished by `re-arranging the conventional draw of a velvet or Wilton fabric 'so that the stuffer and face yarn harnesses (in a velvet loom) work together, but the stuffer warps and the face yarn warps are separated by atleast one chain warp, and single chain warps working oppositely are drawn on either side of one or morevpile warps. l v

Referring now more particularly to the drawings, Figure 1 is illustrative of afabric which is shown as a flat weave in order to more clearly illustrate the zig-zag course of the face yarns. Face yarns 30, 31, 32, 3 3, and 24 are bound in lunder alternate filling shotsV or wefts 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, and 40. Chain warps 41-50 interweave with the filling shots 35-40 and form the ground fabric together with stulfer warps 51, 51. The fabric of Figs. 1-3 also has theV usual bottom filling shots or wefts 52, 52 as shown in Figs. 2 and 3. It will be noted, referring to Fig. 1, that face' warp 3f? vfollows a wavy or zig-zag course warpwise of the fabric since it is alternately tied down over the two chain, warps 41 and 42 and under alternate filling shots 35, '37, and 39. n v v The standard manner of weaving such a fabric'would beto have each of the face warps 30-34 run ,in a relatively straight line completely to one side'or the other of pairs of chain warps l41 and 42. The novel' leno effect provided by the present invention is such that the face or pile warps cross over or are positioned above the chain warps of a pair at the point where the chain warps cross each other. ,It will be noted in Fig. 1 that warps 30 and 31 are 180 out of phase in their warpwise course. The draw throughthe loom harnesses by Vwhich this weave is accomplished is shown in Fig. 4 in which the upper line represents a harness 53 carrying chain warps 41, 44, 45, 48, and 49. Harness 54 carries alternate chain warps of each pair, namely, 42, 43, 46,. 47, and 50. The stuffer harness 55 carries the stuffer warps 51, 51 on the same4 harness in each dent since the stufer warp is always between the top shots 35-40 and the bottom shots, 52., 52. 'I'heface 'pile or print harness 56 carries the face warps 30-34. ,A It is important to note that the stuffer and print harnesses work togetherV and may be physically attached to` one another. How-y ever, the weftwise spacingof the'warps is such that iny each dent a pair of oppositely working chain warps, for example, 41 and 42 are separated'by `a pile warp 30. This draw is shown clearly in Fig. 4 and'will provide the out-of-phase relationship for the pile warps shown'` This is because the stuffer and pile warp in Figure 1. harnesses work four times for every two reversals of the chain harnesses 53 and 54. An explanation of this statement will be clearly understood by referring to Figure 2 from which it will be noted that both the top shots 35-40 and the bottom shots 52., 52 `are inserted inl pairs without reversal of the chain warps. However, the stuffer and the pile warps must be inserted first underneath a top shot and then'over a bottom shot. It will thus be seen that each time one of they face warps 30y is raised, first one and then theother of theV chain 'warp warps.

Figs. 5 and 6 illustrate a variation Vof the weave of.,

Figs. 1-3 in which two adjacent face warps v60 Iand 61' work in phase with eachl other so that they are both 2,924,251 Ice, y Patented rene, 1960l displaced in the same'direction: under everyr'to'p shot For weaving'a pile fabric the face warps Z50-3:1-f

elevated above fthe ground :fabric-ratherthan shown Y in Fig. 2.V In the eventan.-uncut;pile fabric-istdbe produced, Athe ,wiQes `62 will tbe withdrawn -leaving uncut loops Lof the typ'e shown in-Fig.` 7 ;but in a more relaxed and` attened conditio'n. Ifthe wires Y62 are provided with knives, the pile loops `or `projections 6,3ywill be cut to'formtufts 64 and 65 `as seen in Figures 9 and 10.

'I'he withdrawal of the cutting wires has been-found to produce a novel'andunexpected result-sincewithrthe weave of the invention" Atufts are formed whichare not allof the same height.` Since the pilefyarns Vdo not run directly across `the wiresas seen in Fig-8, the withdrawal of the wires with the A-knives at their end s displaces the loops 63 so that a short projection '66, and a long pro jection 67 is formed wheneveria loop is cut ,(Fig.9a). Accurately speaking, the different height tufts'are not J tufts in which one leglofthe same tuft is longer than the other leg. The tufts in accordance with the present wise of the fabric the tufts alternate from high `to low whereas warpwise there will be two highs and two lows. The relativeheight of Athe tufts can be increasedby-other expedients such as -the vuse of high and low wiresl and weaving over double wires as shown in Gebert PatentNo.

2,571,860. This appearance in a cut pile fabric is considered highly-desirable to provide a textured appearance and to break up lines or streakiness.

The leno type weaver with the split chain draw described above can beadvantageously utilized to provide a wide range of novel and desirable effects in a pile fabric.V For example, the leno type weave shown in Fig. 5 as applied to a single pile yarn may be equally used withtwo p ile yarns 70 and 71 working together as lshown in Fig. 13.

' This has-the effect of accentuating the leno`or zig-zag path of the pile yarns.. yCoverage for the ground material in the weavefof Fig. 13 may, .if desired, be provided J through the use of a conventional straight pile yarn 72 outof phase as shown in Fig. 14. Thein-phase draw is illustrated in Fig. 19 and may be readily compared with the draw of Fig. 17 to illustrate the diierence. In all the draw diagrams, the horizontal lines represent harnesses, the upper two being the chain harnesses, usually caled front and back, and the lower two being the stulferprint harnesses.

V Figs. Y`11`24 are illustrative of variations and ruodi` cations of the invention showing the `judicious and bene:

ficial combination of both'double wire, single wire,.in phase, and out of phase construction. For example, in

Figure'll the pile warps 82 and83 operateinleno fash-,t

ion 180 outof phasefsince they are both carried on the print harness 84. The-stuffer harness .85 in the weave of Fig. l1 is provided with a pile yarn 86 which works with the stuifer and provides a cover for the stutfer which is particularly important inthe out-of-phase con-` in each dent between .pairs of opposed chain warps 92` and193. However, a single pile yarn 94 may be lenoed withchain `warps 92 yand. 93 to `provide a compound or accentuated `zig-fzagelect either in `phase or out of phase with warps 90.1and `91. Warp 94 is out of phase ywith 'warp 91 `but thenext succeeding lenoedpile warp 95 is4 in phase with warp 90. `Singleor double binder warps 96, 96;may,.if desired, be-used "in addition to the double binder :warps92 and 93. The combined double wire weave of Fig. 20-using a two iframe double wire construction plus the single leno weave in which onelpile warp works over i. evherytwire is 'indicated more clearly in Figs. 21 and22.

VA furthervariation ofthe weaveis shownin Figs. 23

and `24 whichgutilizesanormal `or straight warp 100 in j a Wilton weave. Warp 100 works 'overa pair` of pile n wires at 101 toform a high `lioat'shown clearly inFig. `23. Otherwise, pile100 is carriedin the back orruns clead4 untilcalledforby the jacquard. The other pile warp1102 of the pair also worksover two adjacent pile `wires. at 101 whereupon it is then carried in leno fashion by appropri- Vate punching of the jacquard cards to tie in rstlunder top shot 103 with chain Warp k1042under the' shot and chain warp A105 ,over'theshot t At the next top shotpile warp 102 is'now tied in under weft 106 but this time thethe latter case, pile yarn 72 is carried over two successive 'pile wirest62,.whereas thepile yarns 70 and 71` are tiedv down under `every top shot therefore being carried over the pile wires individually. -A The lenol weave alsoV provides` a novel -and interesting chain warps 104 and 105 iarereversed `so that the 4warp ing, whereas double` high floats maybeicalled for at 108 eect when appliedto the double wire weave shown in the Gebert patent mentioned above. `In Figure 14 the dovetailing Aof the base loop portions 75, 75 of pile `warps 76 andl 77 is definitely accentuated when the pile. warpsl split the chain warps 78 and 79 as shown in the draw of Figure 17. Figure 16 clearly illustrates themanner in which ,one of therchains, for example, 78 weaves" over top shot 80 and to one side of pile warp 76. The other chain warp 79 of the'pair simultaneously weaves under the bottom shot 81. This permits a denser weave and closer spacingof the warps along'andabove the top shots 80. Since theheight ofithe pile loops 76v and 77 is preferably the same, it will be'tundersto'odV that the surface of the pile `as seen in"Figure 16 will be very dense and 'com- Y ancl'109`in` accordance :withthe pattern` and the manner in which the jacquard `cards :are cut.

f Our improved draw vwhich resembles aleno weave may be advantageously employed in a wide variety of velvet and Wilton-weaves.` By `.using separate weftwise spaced heddles tocarry the rstuffer and one of thev pile `yarns so that one set of chain warps can be drawn between the stuffer and the pile yarn, we'achieve a very novel and de?. sirable effect.' `A dense fabric can be provided with far superior coverage using less expensive face yarn. t

Having thus described our invention, we claim: y1.1'l`hemethod of weavingy a pilefabric-having pairs `of adjacent chain warps-and pile warps which comprises the steps of raising one chain warp of each pair, lower-r ing the other-chainwarp of4 each pair, inserting a filling weftpraising the.y pile warp, inserting a second filling weft and a pile wire, reversing the chains, lowering the said pile Awarpwacrosthe point of chain reversal, andinserting a filling weft. t j f 2. The method of weaving a pile fabric havingpairs of adjacent chain warps and pile warps which comprises the steps of raising one `chain warp of` each 'pairlower ing atpile warp, inserting la filling weft, raising the pile t warp,` inserting a second'lling weft fand af'pile' wire, re-

s versing the chain warps, crossing the pile warp over the chain warps at the point of chain warp reversal, and tieing the face pile warp in under a illlng weft on opposite sides of the chain Warp of each pair.

3. The method of claim 2 including the step of Withdrawing the pile Wire to cut the face pile warp into U tuft heights having equal legs and different height.

4. The method of claim 2 including the step of selecting face pile warps to cross pairs of chain warps at points of reversal.

References Cited in the iile of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS Gebert et al Oct. 16, 1951 Jackson July 26, 1955 Smiley Aug. 23, 1955 Smiley Aug. 23, 1955 Jackson 2 Jan. 15, 1957 

